Installing a Patio Cover

Gutters are included in the patio-cover kit and are screwed to the lower end of the T-bars. Here you can also see the T-bar end caps, which help hold the glazing panels in place.

The outermost T-bars are fitted with side fascia trim.

Acrylic roof panels are light, but should be handled by a couple of workers to prevent damage.

The double-wall panels are hollow and are fitted with F-section trim to keep bugs out and divert water into the gutters.

Once the panels are installed, their top edges are covered with lengths of aluminum flashing that tuck up into a downward-facing leg on the ridge beam.

Finally, gasketed T-bar caps are carefully hammered into place over the tops of the T-bars using a rubber mallet.

To keep water from splashing off the house roof and down onto the deck, this patio cover has optional fill panels, which can be removed for maintenance.

Post base plates are screwed to the bottom of each column and to the deck, which must be properly blocked to support the loads.

Beam-to-column connections are made by sliding post-top shoes into an I-beam’s bottom channel, then inserting the shoes into the tops of the columns.

The post-top shoe is at the far right in the photo.

A post-bottom shoe that has been modifed to fit the slope of the roof is bolted to framing or solid blocking.

One end of the ridge beam supporting the patio cover’s gable roof will be connected to this short post section, which fits over the post-bottom shoe.

With the ridge I-beam in place, the T-bar rafters that will support the glazing panels can be screwed to the I-beam on 4-foot centers.

Brackets can be used to fasten the aluminum framing directly to the roof (as shown here), to a wall, or to another framing member.

Because the cover section that will be supported by this beam will drain into a gutter, it has been slightly sloped back toward the house.

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