Figure 1. Install joist hangers tight to the wood. The Joist Clip, a simple spring wire clamp, eases the task and keeps fingers out of harm’s way.
Figure 2. Use the proper nails — at least 3 inches long by .148-inch diameter — for “shear-nailed” joist hangers.
Figure 4. Concealed-flange hangers are fastened to the ledger with nails through the folded-in flanges.
Figure 5. Although commonly done, field modifying a joist hanger at the end of the ledger by flattening its flange ruins its integrity.
Figure 6. Concealed-flange hangers can save the day when the joist layout falls next to a ledger bolt.
Figure 7. A variety of post bases are available that both tie down the post and raise it above the footing to keep the end grain dry and rot-free.
Figure 8. Placing the footing after framing the deck is a sure way to align the footing with the main beam. When doing a footing this way, attach the base to the post before embedding it in concrete.
Figure 9. When the footings go in before the deck is framed, bolt-down post bases make precise post alignment a cinch.
Figure 10. Notching a seat in a 6x6 post and bolting the upper part of the post to the girder provides a connection that resists rolling as well as uplift.
Figure 11. On retrofits, bolting or screwing a 2-by to the back of the post and beam braces the connection.
Figure 14. Specifically designed stringer hardware provides a reliable connection to an often under-built attachment. Mount the hardware with structural screws. Nails here would be placed in withdrawal, which is prohibited in the IRC.
Figure 15. Hardware similar to seismic hold-downs provides a reliable newel connection that’s described in a report from the ICC-Evaluation Service.
Figure 16. Narrow-diameter structural screws require no predrilling and can be quickly installed with an impact driver.